As households gather at the dinner table for what promises to be an unusual pandemic holiday, the meal demands a surprise, something different.

Pinot Meunier is one of the three varieties in the traditional Champagne trifecta — with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — adding bright fruit and verve to the balance of flavors. Although it remains the backbone to some of the world’s most coveted and notable sparklers, it’s also a wine we hear very little about. On its own, Pinot Meunier is mostly uncommon in the Old World, but in Oregon, it’s proving a cult favorite.

Meunier means “miller” in French, referring to the flour-like dustiness often found on the leaves. It’s generally a high-acid, cool-climate grape, both light and fruity. These features are part of the reason it’s such a great addition to Champagne blends, but it’s also what it makes it so delicious as a single-varietal wine. Though somewhat maligned in France, perhaps because…

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